Training

Back in the Day

Dorset Scene

01Beta | Chick Power

Welcome to the first in our regular features of beta for routes in Dorset

Quite a few of our coaching clients tell us that our inside knowledge of Dorset gives them a 2 grade advantage when going for that all-important redpoint, so we thought we'd share some of that beta around.

First up, we have Chick Power, a boulder problem-style route at Winspit. Originally I graded it as a tough F7b, but subsequent ascents have confirmed it as solid F7c (sorry guys!). Which tells me that my beta might be good, but my grading is rubbish...

If you want to see the topo of this sector, we have one here...

Start the beta!

Got some Dorset climbing beta you want to share? Get in touch!

Written by Rob Kennard on 14th July, 2014.

01Join the Discussion
  1. Point #1

    From the undercut, grab the first crimp and make the clip.

  2. Point #2

    Set up on the first two crimps. There is a slight knee-drop here with the right leg.

  3. Point #3

    Span up to gain the slanting crimp- it's not as good as you would like! The left leg is just pasting at this point to keep your centre of gravity to the right of the crimp.

  4. Point #4

    A hard foot move...

  5. Point #5

    Gain the sharp undercut crimp and try and gain a standing position ready for the next move...

  6. Point #6

    Snatch up for a terrible half-crimp.

  7. Point #7

    Another hard foot move( a foot-swap to the right foot) allows you to pop for a better crimp. I'm pretty 'spanned-out' here.

  8. Point #8

    Roll-over the right hand to get the good ledge.

  9. Point #9

    A quick two-step using a big side-pull.

  10. Point #10

    Layback to get your feet on the ledge.

  11. Point #11

    An (almost) hands-off rest. It's only F6b+ from here...

  12. Point #12

    Gain a ledge and a crimp either side of the crack.

  13. Point #13

    A tricky barn-door layback to get your feet up.

  14. Point #14

    Both hands laybacking the crack, with the right-hand on the best bit.

  15. Point #15

    Roll your left hand over to the higher crack.

  16. Point #16

    Turn your body face on to grab the crimp on the right.

  17. Point #17

    Almost there! Gain the slightly higher crimp and move your feet up.

  18. Point #17

    Success!